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Jeep Q & A Questions 1. What's the "right" air pressure for your Jeep's tires? Heres what Granville and Willie have to say on page 18-2: Everybody talks about letting the air out of a tire for better traction and ride quality. But just how much do you let out for a given situation? Cant tell you. Not thats a trade secret, its just that there are too many variables such as terrain, speed, rim width, tire size, vehicle weight, and driving style. Its pretty obvious that a 31-10.50-15 on a Jeep Scrambler will flex more at 15 psi than a 33-12.50-15 will when supporting a CJ-2A. 5 psi may be just right when running the sand dunes if youre careful, but then again 8 to 12 psi (or more) may be better if youre going to do some high speed running and jumping. Too little air pressure can cause the bead seal to break away from the rim or let too much sidewall contact a rock. Both situations could result in a damged tire and you putting on the spare. So whats the way to learn? By doing, and watching. Lower the tire pressure in stages in different terrain and watch to see how the vehicle handles. On board air compressors are great. Wish I had one. Do keep in mind that once off the trail you may have to drive a considerable distance before you find that friendly service station, so judge accordingly. And on page 13-6, more on air pressure in your Jeeps tires: The tire is a marvelous, quantitative part of yore rig. Use it as it should be used! Air those tires down when you go off the road. Youd sob spots all over your waistcoat if you could see what happens at my place in Baja. I live on the beach. There is a lotta soft sand around. And about 50 times/year some pore, bedraggled 4-wheeler comes to my trailer with this terrible tale about being stuck. Often theyd stuck at low tide where the rig gets totaled when the tide comes in. Very sad. Time was I flew into a tizzy, got Dawg, got the rig with the winch, took shovels and the whole shot. I hardly do that any more. I slip onto my Honda 3-wheeler - or take the CJ if the guys gotta long way to walk - and perambulate to the scene. I check tires. Always theyre up around 30 psi or more. Overs dead body sometimes, I air those suckers down to about 15 psi depending ons load. Then, quite often withs lady at my side, I fire offs machine" and quietly with no wheel spin drive it out onto firm ground. In fact, if your ladys good looking enough you might just see me, for the last time, take off down the beach, to leave you with a flea-bit Dawg and a well-worn 3-wheeler. Good trade? I just cant believe it, four-wheel guys stuck in sand, some ofem Jeepers! But it happens all the time. Because some guys got the notion that tires should never be de-aired; Gotta leaveem like God and Firestone intended! Ridiculous! Maybe their biggest worry is how to get the tires back up again. Because thats the sob story I hear every time I air down a guy and saveim from total destruction in the waves. So how do we do that? 2. Is there a "devil" in your Jeep? This answer is on page 8-4: That devil the guys are talking about is the original engine of the WW II Jeep. If theres a devil in your Jeep, youve got a golden oldie: Back in 1941, ft started with thisun. A 4-cylinder, in-line, water-cooled unit with side-valve (l-head) characteristics. Thats a way to say both the intake and exhaust valves are in the block. Some people like to callem flatheads. Cant be all that bad of an idea as old Henry usedem in his Fords up to 52. It develops 60 hp at 4000 rpm (downhill, some say) and has a cid of 134.2 inches. Compression is low enough to burn even Baja gas, 6.48:1, and it was used from 1941 to 1953 when it was replaced by the F-head. Without the L-head, Willys, as it was then known, would probably not have won the competition for a WW II Jeep. Actually, the engine goes back to 1939 when Barney Ross worked it up for the Willys automotive line from a engine originally designed in 1928! He knew what it could do and what the Jeep (not named yet) had to have to be that thing the Army wanted. It did it. That engine still does it, all over the world. Has been known to make grown men, with fancy-new Jeeps, cry as they try to compete in rock. In early models the camshaft was chain driven, but in later jobs (beginning Serial No. 175402, or around the year 1943) it was gear driven. This barn-burner has aluminum pistons and - a big deal in those days because not all companies hadem - replaceable bearing inserts. Oil is pumped through crankshaft passages for the main and conrod bearings. The oil pump mounts externally up at an angle through the engine with the distributor poking down into its end for drive. What a clever way to do things and to get the pump out in the open! (on most modern wimps you gotta pull the pan.) 3. What about T-98 and T-18 trannies? The transmission chapter has this to say (Page 18-8): Im going to group these together because theyre pretty much the same. I think it is one of, if not the best and strongest trans Jeep ever used. Watch out though, Jeep used at least eleven different input shaft designs in the T-18 and nine in the T-98 over the years, depending on what vehicle they stuck it in. This trans makes for a great conversion because of its strength and compact design. Cant really go wrong with this trans. The T-18 and T-98 (early design, 1953-66) are basically the same transmission other than the way the mainshaft is supported. This is a fairly compact four speed transmission with a cast iron case measuring 11.87 inches long and weighing approximately 150 pounds. Its extremely strong design makes it a very popular transmission, plus the fact that its easily adapted to a variety of engines and transfer cases. The left side of the case will be stamped T-18 or T-98. There is a power take off access plate on the right side. It is possible to have a coverplate/shifter from a T-98 on a T-18 that was built prior to 1979. Pre 79 T-18s and 98s used whats called a bellcrank shifter and had reverse gear shift pattern to the right and up. In 79 and above, reverse was over and down. Between 78 and 79 there was also a synchronizer size change on third/fourth gear from 2.5 inches to 2.7 inches. This tran was used by Ford, Jeep, and IH in a variety of vehicles and styles that may or may not be interchangeable due to bolt pattern, input shaft length and rear face design. The Ford version T-18 used in F-100 and F-350s from 1966 to 84 is the most popular for both engine and transfer case conversions. It used a 6 1/2 inch long 17 tooth left hand pitch shaft with a standard Ford size 4.848 inch bearing retainer. The T-98 version (1953-66) used a larger 5 1/8 inch bearing retainer.... Well, thats not all Granville and Willie have to say about the T-18 and T-98 trannies. But you get the picture. These guys know what theyre talking about and want to help you with your trannie problems. 4. What's a "stall test" and how do you do it? (See page 15-3) Here, on page 15-3 is a valuable Jeep tip, that could save the cost of The Jeep Bible many times over: The most fabulous rip-off in the world (next to the radiator back flush which we talk about in the Cooling Chapter) is the TRANSMISSION TUNE-UP ONLY $18.97! Such specials exist for one reason; to get your poor tranny out and slip into your pocket for a $500 rebuild or whatever it costs these days. Dont go for that kind of come on until youve personally done a Stall Test and know the results. Whats Stall? No matter what some shops may say, its simply this; its the highest rpm you can get with wheels locked, gas floored and the auto tranny in gear. Thats Stall. Nothing else is! Okay, the actual speed varies a bit in our Jeeps but lets use the latest for newest vehicles. It runs from 1850 to 2150 rpm. (If you gotta kit in that tranny, and theyre great to have, its different so check into that for the test.) Bring the Bucket to operating temperature with a good run down the road. Be sure the fluid level is dead on. Hook up your tach where you can see it from the drivers cockpit, brake & block the wheels and put the madrecito in DRIVE not LO. Take the gas pedal to the floor briefly, no moren 5 seconds and see whatcha get. At true stall the tach will stop climbing and you get a whole set of things to think about depending on the number your rpm turns out to be. If she reads appreciably below 1850, you need an engine tune-up. If, however, youre dead sure shes tuned good and you get stall speeds around 1550 rpm (not 1850) AND the rig goes good at highway speeds but has poor low speed acceleration, the stator overrunning clutch (inside) is slipping. Only fix: replace converter. Theres no adjustment even on the new ones. If she goes sailing right up to 2150 plus 200 rpm or more, then cuter off. No use to do more. The neutral clutch, the front sprag or the rear sprag is slipping. For this you go INTO the tranny. Suppose you get normal stall speeds but on the highway you need too much pedal to maintain an accustomed pace. You can even have good low speed acceleration. But if you need heavy pedal like this then the stator overrunning clutch slips and again, its a new converter you want. 5. Could replacing the "lower hose" fix your Jeep's cooling/heating problems? Here's what the experts say on (P. 10-9): Your engine heats for no good reason at speed. You look under the hood. You check stuff. Everything seems right and you cant figure it out when your Jeep now pegs the heat meter at lower and lower rpm. No broken hoses, no nothing. Whats wrong with this miserable engine?! Practically always when things go like this, its your lower radiator hose. Whirl up the engine with your eyes on it. If shes bad, youll see the sides suck in, sometimes totally flatten. Thats the obstruction your coolant tries to get through at speed. This is because a partial vacuum is created on that side of the radiator when the water pump pulls coolant. Most times that hose is built with a coil spring inside it. When the spring rusts out in about three years the hose sides pull in like a limp soda straw. Coolant just wont come through. Except at idle. So put in a new one. On a crossflow radiator where theres no top-bottom its the one that goes down lowest on the engine, the one to the water pump. The upper hose that goes to the top of your engine and the thermostat doesnt see vacuum. So dont worry about springs hidden away inside there. Just blowups. When it gets old. Your first test to make when you get a sudden escalation in temperature is that lower hose. Shes a devilish lil rascal!
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